Wednesday, November 17, 2010

VH Noodle House

VH Noodle House
3288 Pierce St
Richmond, CA 94804
(510) 527-3788
Categories: Vietnamese, Chinese


There's a certain "je ne sais quoi" factor when it comes to good Asian noodle soups. No matter if I eat Vietnamese pho or Hong Kong style wonton noodle soups or a steamy bowl of shiyo based cha su ramen or Taiwanese beef noodle soup or Singaporean curry laksa, the mystery behind the combination of what goes into a good noodle soup to make it GOOD is still elusive (thanks, Tien!).

It's never simply one element. Perhaps it's the marriage of broth, fresh noodles and spices that determine the penultimate in the bowl. Or, it may be as simple as just the right sprinkling of spices and the ever present MSG that is dominant in Asian cuisine. OR, it may be the time taken to extract the flavor from the beef or pork or chicken bones for the broth, the lovely savory broth that makes me cry happy tears.

My quest for the perfect bowl brought me to VH last weekend, when the bf and I found ourselves hungry, with little time to spare, and a freshly killed whole red snapper in rigor mortis, warming in the trunk of our car awaiting its fate in the deep fryer for a proper supper later in the evening.

I looked into the neighboring pho restaurant with only a few diners scattered through their large dining room and made a bee line for VH, which was still crowded at 3pm. Now, as a child following around my mother on weekends in Oakland's Chinatown, I've eaten many many bowls of the teo chew style rice noodle soups at their original location. In fact, this is the ONLY place my mother will order stir-fried pork kidneys with ginger and scallions. Chaozhou people have settled in various parts of China and Southeast Asia and their cuisine has influenced various cultures throughout. I grew up with the flavors from my maternal Chaozhou side of the family, and it reminds me of home.

VH cooks the kidneys to perfection, with a slight snap, never overcooking (which can make it lifeless and rubbery) and never tasting like an iron supplement just melted in your mouth before you could get some water to flush it down. Bleurgh. We still haven't figured out how they get the kidneys so tasty, but it may be the amount of heat and cooking time that you can only replicate on a chef's grade stove.

The restaurant in Richmond provides better ambiance and the staff are friendlier than the original establishment in Oakland's Chinatown. Diners are also given the option of what type of noodles to order for their soup, which is a nice step up.

The bf ordered a pork meatball rice noodle soup with round rice noodles. I ordered the traditional teo chew noodle soup with small flat rice noodles. Both were heaven in a bowl. The broth was incredibly flavorful and clear, and I scooped heaping spoonfuls of my favorite ingredients like ground pork, lean pork, chicken, pork meatballs and the famed kidneys into my soup spoon.

We ate in silence, with only the slurping of noodles and a few "yums" and "wows" interspersed in our psychic conversation of agreement that this noodle house is now in the top 10 of our favorite go-to places for a cheap meal in a bowl.

Our server forgot to bring a thai iced tea until the end of the meal, but by then, we could forgive a lot more than a dinky beverage.

Formosa Bento House

Formosa Bento House
2660 Broadway St
Redwood City, CA 94063
(650) 568-1782
Categories: Taiwanese, Japanese


I just got back from having the beef noodle soup for lunch, and it was well worth the 20 minute car ride each way from my office in driving rain, wet feet/shoes and all around crappy day.

This large bowl of fresh ramen-style noodles was brimming with tender brisket slices and chunks of soft, lean beef and topped with a little mountain of baby bok choy and spinach. They gave a little ramikin of pickled mustard greens on the side, and had their own housemade chili paste that was good enough to be bottled and sold. The beef broth was deep, rich and dark.

I am not a big lunch eater, but I ate that entire hearty, steamy bowl of goodness. The owners are very friendly Taiwanese folks from Ilan county and the cafe/restaurant is extremely clean. The service is attentive and straightforward.

However, the draw is their true-to-form, homestyle, Taiwanese "Hong Shao" Beef Noodle Soup. Each bite was like sitting at my mother's dining table or on the rickety stool and formica table at the famous noodle shop in the alleyway behind my grandparents' home in Taipei.

They serve traditional "Bian Dang" (Taiwanese/Japanese style bento boxes) with all the goodness you find on a street corner in Taiwan.

Go here for the noodles, fresh out of the kitchen. If you want take away, I'd suggest one of the fried bento packages.

I'm coming back and I'm bringing an army of hungry people with me!

Sichuan Fortune House

Sichuan Fortune House
41 Woodsworth Ln
Pleasant Hill, CA 94523
(925) 686-9828
Category: Chinese

Even though the service still needs some work and the decor is lifted outta some Big Trouble in Little China design set, I am giving Sichuan Fortune House 5 big stars.

Want authentic Sichuan Chinese food, literally, the kind they make out of Chongqing, China? This is the place to get it.

I've been on a vegan/raw diet for most of the week, allowing myself one meal out of the week to eat meat, and it was worth it spending my week's allocation at this restaurant.

My family and I had:

Dan Dan Noodles - Excellent! I would go back in a heartbeat to eat this dish alone. The noodles were extremely fresh and toothsome. The sauce was traditional, with the right amount of "ma" (numbing spice) to it

Twice Fried Beef - Again, traditionally made, albeit on the salty side. Make sure to order some steamed rice to eat with it

Pig's instestine/pork blood/pickled vegetable stew - Very saucy and spicy with balanced flavors

Onion pancake - had better, a bit chewy and tough, but went well with the other entrees

Pig's ears with scallions and chili oil - Nice cold appetizer dish with the pig's ears sliced oh-so-thin

Lamb and pickled cabbage soup - Nice version of this northern style soup, could have used a little more lamb flavor, but I enjoyed the pickled cabbage

They give you a little appetizer dish of honeyed peanuts and pickled vegetables. The bill came to $50+. It's great to find such authenticity in Contra Costa County.

p.s. Don't listen to other Yelpers when they claim this isn't spicy, authentic or good. They just don't know what they're talking about. Complexity and balance in spices (not just in-your-face spicy) is what Sichuan food is all about.

Hakka Restaurant

Hakka Restaurant
Neighborhood: Outer Richmond
4401 Cabrillo St
San Francisco, CA 94121
(415) 876-6898


"THIS IS SO GOOD"

I kept saying that line over and over again while eating. I don't think I even took breaths or breaks between bites. I just gorged myself on some excellent Hakka cuisine.

Soup:
Lao Huo Tang (Old Fire House Soup)
Cantonese folks like to make this deep, savory broth from scraps of bone, meats and herbs and render it all day. The broth is a much more flavorful pork version of the broth you get in pho, with mellow Chinese herbs and even red bean.

Entrees:

Stewed pork belly slices with preserved vegetable and iceberg lettuce. The pork belly was incredible, stewed to almost falling apart, and the flavor from the preserved vegetables infused the pork and sauce completely.

Fried pumpkin with salt duck egg batter. The "HOLY MOLY THIS IS FREAKING DELICIOUS" dish of the evening. If you can imagine the salty goodness from the egg batter paired with the sweetness of the kabocha pumpkin, cut like steak fries and served piping hot....well....I don't need to say any more.

Stir-fried lily bulb with woodear fungus, peppers, cucmber and asparagus. Light and flavorful, with all of the vegetables cooked halfway retaining their freshness and snap.

Half order of the salt baked chicken. This has been talked about thoroughly in other reviews, but what I love about this dish is how simple it seems, but has such difficult components working sublimely and harmoniously. The chicken meat was juicy and tender. The skin was salty/crispy like roast duck skin. The bird used was lean, flavorful and small, reminiscent of wild chicken or yellow feathered chickens. The dipping sauce didn't overpower the flavor of the chicken meat.

Stir-fried clams with basil. Aromatic and subtle, the sauce is good over steamed rice, and the clams were super plump. I loved that they used serrano chilis as opposed to the more astringent jalapeno to spice it up.

Dessert:

Pumpkin pudding with tapioca pearls. Served warm, with a bright orange glow from the pumpkin, we were stuffed, but couldn't let one drop go to waste. Not overtly sweet, and the tapioca was cooked to perfection.

Total cost: $52 and some change

Takes credit cards. Friday night at 7pm, we didn't have a reservation and were seated immediately. The staff are very friendly and the owner's son was gracious and helpful.

Will be back with family and more friends in tow.

Saigon Seafood Harbor Restaurant

Saigon Seafood Harbor Restaurant
3150 Pierce St
Richmond, CA 94804
(510) 559-9388

Fantastic.

I wish more people would come here and give the new restaurant a try.

We came here as a party of 6 on a Wednesday night, and spent roughly $200 here, with the restaurant half empty from 6:30pm and into the evening.

Mixed roasted meats appetizer with roasted duck, pork and jellyfish salad
Lao huo tang (complimentary house soup)
Clams with black bean sauce
Garlic roasted crab
Geoduck - two ways (salt and pepper deep-fried, and stir fried with lily flowers and vegetables)
Steamed cod with ginger and scallions
Sauteed mature pea sprouts with garlic
Tsingtao beer

The decor is haute Hong Kong banquet, service is very friendly and knowledgeable. The kitchen is wonderful, good timing of each course and well executed.

I'd come here with large parties or at least 4. Be prepared to spend some money. All seafood we had was fresh and wonderfully prepared.

Beijing Restaurant in San Francisco

Beijing Restaurant
Neighborhood: Mission Terrace
1801 Alemany Blvd
San Francisco, CA 94112
(415) 333-8182

Overall: 4.5 stars
Food: 5 stars
Ambiance: 3 typical Chinese decor with photos on walls
Service: 5 stars, very nice and helpful

You know you're in a Northerner's house when all you hear are rolling RRR's in the spoken Mandarin and you can hear playful bantering in the background.

Although the decor and the physical restaurant itself is rather mundane (red lanterns and red exterior paint) and kitschy (photos of regulars, Yao Ming are taped on walls and flat panel television with Chinese pop concerts in the background), the food is 100% Beijing style.

We ordered only from the "Beijing Specialties" section:

1. Stir-fried Liver in Spicy Garlic Sauce
- the liver was tender and the sauce was pure spicy delight. The gravy would have been excellent over a plate of rice or with a steamed bun.

2. Sweet and Sour Pork Meatballs
- The American sweet and sour sauce is laden with ketchup, red food coloring 5 and processed white vinegar. Authentic Chinese sweet and sour is actually a very heavy sauce, traditionally made with black vinegar that is more similar to Worcestershire and reduced with a lot of sugar to a sticky, thick-as-molasses syrup. This sauce is decadent, and drizzled over bite-sized, deep-fried pork meatballs.

3. Chive Dumplings (Jou Cai He Zi)
These are like Chinese empanadas, filled with chives, eggs and garlic wrapped with a flour pastry. The pastry is then pan-fried in hot oil until the skin is bubbling and charred, and the juices from the filling run over your chin as you bite into it.

4. Sour Cabbage and Pork Belly Clay Pot (Suan Cai Bai Rou Sa Guo)
This is the real deal. The cabbage is house-made and the pork is sliced so thin that it disintegrates in your mouth. The broth is rich in pork essence and they give you lots of fen pi (the slippery glass noodles) to slurp down with your soup.

I took my father there to sample the food, and he was very pleased with the meal. This is a great family restaurant, with authentic Beijing-style food at a great price.

Our entire meal came out to $39 and some change, and we had tons of leftovers for the next day.

Saturday, May 08, 2010

Nigiri Night



I make tons of maki and rolls, but tonight, I felt like eating something with variety, color and fun. After reading Mark Bittman's article on DIY nigiri in the New York Times last week, I was inspired to make my own.

I bought some enoki mushrooms and braised them in a sweet soy/sake sauce. I cut some zucchini, some daikon sprouts, umeboshi bits, pickled ginger, natto and asparagus tips. I reduced the soy/sake sauce to make a shiny glaze, and cut some sheets of nori.





Wednesday, April 14, 2010

Okonomiyaki (Japanese Pizza)



Oh the humanity!

To have eaten okonomiyaki only for the first time in New Zealand is quite disturbing. HOW could I have overlooked such an important and delicious morsel of food in Japan, I can only guess, but I'm glad it was introduced by someone who has been and will always be an important part of my life.

That feeling is reciprocated with the okonomiyaki pie.

Okonomiyaki (New Zealand style)

2 cups shredded savoy cabbage
1/4 cup shredded carrots
5 thinly sliced reconstituted shitake mushrooms, save 1 tbsp of mushroom broth
1/4 cup thinly sliced green onions
1/2 small white onion, thinly sliced rings
5 thinly sliced white button mushrooms
2 tbsp dashi
3 tbsp of grated nagaimo (should be pretty slimy)
3 eggs
2 tsp sea salt
1 tsp round white pepper

Heat nonstick frying pan or flat grill on medium low heat. Season surface with light layer of vegetable oil

Mix seasonings and wet ingredients together. Dashi should be room temperature. Beat eggs until smooth and then add nagaimo and wet seasoning to beaten eggs and mix. Set aside.




Toss the vegetables and mushrooms together in large bowl, making sure everything is mixed uniformly. Then, add wet egg mixture and mix together thoroughly. Using ladle, place a scoop of mixture onto hot, flat surface of pan/grill. Then, using spatula, press egg/veggie mixture flat, creating a round.



Leave on pan/grill until cooked side down starts getting brown and crisped, and then carefully flip the pizza without breaking the round form. Cook on other side until browned and slightly crisped.

Serve with okonomiyaki sauce and Kewpie mayonnaise. I like to put Sriracha, pickled ginger and kimchi on the side, but you can pretty much eat it with anything (even ketchup).

Wednesday, April 07, 2010

The Coffee Eclair From Heaven

If you ever find yourself in Motueka, down on the northern tip of the South Island in New Zealand, you must stop into this bakery/patisserie with a red and white sign that states simply "German Bakery" and try this coffee-flavored eclair. It is something out of this world. I think I ate it in 4 bites total.

Oh The Food In NZ! Part Quatre





More Eats From New Zealand, Part Tres





What I Ate In New Zealand, Part Deux





What I Ate In New Zealand

Holy meat and dairy products, Batman!

New Zealand is a gorgeously indulgent land where grass-fed cows and sheep lull gently through lush pastures and where everything tastes fresh-from-the-farm. Below are a few photos of what I ate.





Monday, February 15, 2010

Simple Night In

Inspired by Lidia Bastianich's olive showcase over the weekend, I braised some celery and made dinner for myself in less than 20 minutes.


Friday, January 29, 2010

Fresh Pasta Night (Part 2)

Making your own pasta is simple.

I wish I had known just how easy it was instead of always buying dried pasta from the stores or, worse yet, expensive frozen/refrigerated versions! I didn't even need a pasta maker, roller or any other complicated contraption. Just my dough, some elbow grease and a rolling pin.

Egg Pasta Dough

1-3/4 cups all purpose flour
2 eggs, room temp
Pinch of salt

I mixed the salt and flour, and made a volcano looking shape with the flour. I cracked the 2 eggs into the middle of the volcano and stirred quickly in one direction to beat the egg, being careful not to spill over the edge.





Once the egg was beaten thoroughly, I started to incorporate the edges of the flour into the egg, little by little. This part takes some time. The egg mixture will slowly pull in more flour from the sides of the volcano, but you have to be patient and not let the egg spill over or else a catastrophe of minor proportions will take place on your countertop.

Once most of the flour is incorporate, it's time to knead!



I don't knead my dough too much since I am not using a pasta roller. Something about making it too chewy if you knead too much. So, once everything is smooth and round, I wrap cellophane around it and let the ball of dough rest for an hour.

When the hour is up, unwrap and cut the dough in half. Roll out one portion of it into a long oval. Make sure you evenly distribute your weight on the rolling pin so your pasta comes out fairly evenly. If the dough sticks to the counter, add more flour to the surface.







Then, add a little more flour to the flattened dough and rolling it into a cylinder. Using a really sharp knife, cut thin and even slices into the cylinder. Roll out each strip and voila...pasta!



This is the final meal, ragu and all:

Monday, January 25, 2010

Fresh Pasta Night (Part 1)

I like to anticipate things.

Really, half the fun of life is the anticipation of something great, dontcha think? I found this excellent recipe for a very egg-y pasta dough, which I love with all of my heart, as there is nothing better than an egg dough that you can knead into every little Italian noodle shape.

So, in my attempt to make some true, downhome, handmade pasta tomorrow evening, I put together a simple veal/lamb/red wine ragu that will be a savory and fantastic accompaniment to any pasta shape I'm able to roll out tomorrow evening. This, with the help of a bunch of leftovers in the fridge and good mushrooms and spices.



Dark Etoile's Veal and Lamb with Red Wine Ragu

1/4 lbs of ground veal
1/4 lbs of finely minced leg of lamb (this was leftover from the other night, I just minced the meat very fine)
1-1/2 cups of finely diced crimini mushrooms
1 cup of red wine
2 tbsp of tomato paste
1 tbsp of finely chopped fresh rosemary
3 small cloves of garlic finely minced and crushed with the heal of the blade
Pinch of red chili flakes
Pinch of marjoram
Extra virgin olive oil

Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1 generous pinch of sugar

Put a generous tbsp of extra virgin olive oil in a medium sized saucepan. Heat at medium until oil glistens. Throw in garlic and cook until fragrant (lightly browned). Toss mushrooms in to soak up oils and garlic flavor. Sweat the mushrooms. Add veal and lamb and cook until pink. Add rosemary, red chili flakes and marjoram.



Then add tomato paste and stir until evenly distributed. The ragu should get thick and pasty. Add half a cup of wine at a time, stirring all the while until wine reduces to thick sauce. Add salt, pepper and sugar to taste.

Sunday, January 17, 2010

My First Time with XLB

Making Xiao Long Bao is best left to the experts. Although generally viewed as simple dumplings, there's a real artistry that goes into each of these little soup-filled purses of deliciousness. My attempts with the skin came out rubbery and thick, but the filling was savory with little bursts of juice (although not soupy like I had wanted them to be!). However, I believe I may have put too much gluten in the wrapper dough and will take it easy next time I make these.

With the help of a friend, we tried desperately to make 18 pleats for the fold, but we usually ended up with 10 or less. Alas, there's a first time for everything!

Xiao Long Bao

Ingredients

Wrapper

3/4 cup high gluten flour (mix scant 3/4 cup of all-purpose flour with 1/2 tbsp of wheat gluten powder if you do not have any bread flour)
1/3 cup less 1 tablespoon water
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 cup boiling water
flour for dusting

Soup

1/4 lbs skin of pork
2 sweet chinese sausages
1 scallion
1 pounded piece of ginger
chinese rice wine
salt

Filling

1/2 lbs ground pork (use the fatty kind)
2 tablespoons light soy sauce
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon finely minced ginger and scallions
white pepper
sugar
2 teaspoons dark sesame oil
Splash of chinese rice wine

Making the soup



Wash and clean pork skin. Parboil in boiling water with the chicken breast and ham. Place all the meat in a saucepan with 6 cups of water. Add scallion and ginger and bring to the boil. Reduce heat and simmer till pork skin is soft. Continue simmering till only 2 cups of liquid remains. Strain and reserve the liquid keeping the pork skin. Diced the saved pork skin. Whizz the pork skin and liquid in a blender till milky. Season with salt and leave to cool. Use before it gelatinizes.

Preparing the Filling



Place the ground pork into a mixing bowl. Add salt and light soy sauce. Stir with chopstick or wooden spoon continously and in one direction only. Add the rest of the ingredients. Continue to stir in the same direction until the mixture forms a thick paste. Pour in one cup of the prepared soup, a little at a time, stirring to mix thoroughlly with the pork. Wrap in cling film and put in the refrigerator to cool.

Preparing the wrapper



In a large mixing bowl, mix the 3/4 cups of high gluten flour and 1/3 cup less one tablespoon less water until it resembles bread crumbs. Knead into a dough. Place the plain flour in a mixing bowl. In a small saucepan bring 1/4 cup of water to the boil. Add the 1/3 cup plain flour and move the saucepan away from the flame, stirring the flour vigorously with a wooden spoon. Leave it to cool a little before kneading together with the high gluten flour dough prepared earlier. Cover with clean damp cloth and leave to rest for 4 hours.

Forming the dumplings


Place 2 teaspoons of oil on the worktop, put the dough on top and knead for a little while. Cut the dough into 4 quarters. Form one quarter into a cylinder. Divide the cylinder into 10 pieces. Roll each piece into a ball. Flatten each piece with the palm of your hand into a disk. Use a rolling pin to roll the disk out forming a thin disk with the edges thinner than the center. Make a well with you thumb and first finger and drape the disk over. Let it sag in the middle to form a recess for the filling. Use a teaspoon to place 2 teaspoons of filling. Carefully gather the edge of wrapper making folds and holding on to them till fully gathered. Traditionally, 18 folds are made. Do not let your finger touch the filling while doing this or you will make a mess. Do the same for the rest.

Steaming


Cut out cabbage leave disks or use thin slices of carrot and stick one piece to the bottom of each dumpling. Place the dumplings in a bamboo steamer. In a large saucepan or wok, bring water to a rolling boil. Sit the steamer on a rack over the boiling water, close the lid and steam for seven minutes. The dumpling is done when the filling feels firm to the touch. Serve with a small dish of thinly shredded ginger in Chinese black vinegar (very similar to Worcestshire sauce).